Traveling in Koh Rong Sanloem: A Hidden Paradise in Cambodia

When we first traveled to Southeast Asia in 2019, our visit to Cambodia was limited to exploring the Angkor temples, as a stop between Bangkok and Phuket. We always felt like something was missing, and on this second trip around the world, we didn’t miss the chance to add the country to our itinerary. Koh Rong Sanloem was one of our top destinations, though it wasn’t the first, as reaching this island requires passing through Sihanoukville.

Why Koh Rong Sanloem is Special

First of all, we must confess that we were undecided between Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem. Both islands promised paradise beaches and an authentic experience, far from mass tourism. However, we ended up choosing Koh Rong Sanloem – and we didn’t regret it for a second.

There is a lot of talk about the decline of this area, once seen as the “Maldives” of Southeast Asia. For us, visiting this corner of the world for the first time, there was no comparison.

What we found was a true tropical paradise, with white sandy beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters. From what we gathered, Koh Rong Sanloem offers a quieter and less developed environment than its neighbor, Koh Rong, making it perfect for those seeking to relax and disconnect from the world.

How to Get to Koh Rong Sanloem

The only way to reach the island is by boat, departing from Sihanoukville. This coastal city has a strong Chinese influence and, to be honest, doesn’t have much tourist appeal for most visitors. It’s best to book a night in a hotel before taking the boat the next day.

That’s exactly what we did. We arrived in Sihanoukville by plane from Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur) and stayed one night at Siha Treasure Hotel. We even took advantage of the end of the day to do some shopping at the supermarket, explore the surroundings, and have dinner on Ou Chheuteal Beach, which we highly recommend – there are plenty of restaurants and an incredible sunset.

There are several companies operating boats to Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem, and our choice was based mainly on the convenience of the schedules. It’s important to ensure the boat arrives at the part of the island where you’ll be staying; if not, contact the accommodation to find out the best way to get there. In our case, the hotel had a boat that took us from the arrival point to the property. The crossing takes about 45 minutes – we went by speedboat and, since the sea was calm, the journey went smoothly.

You can see the boat options from Sihanoukville here and here.

The return is done the same way, via Sihanoukville. For those wishing to explore Koh Rong, there are boats that connect the two islands. In our case, we returned to Sihanoukville and took the train to Kampot, to explore a bit more of this coastal area of Cambodia.

Koh Rong vs Koh Rong Sanloem

The main difference between the two islands is the level of development and the overall atmosphere. Koh Rong is larger and more touristy, offering more accommodation options and a livelier nightlife. On the other hand, Koh Rong Sanloem is smaller, less touristy, and generally quieter.

The choice of Koh Rong Sanloem was mainly motivated by it being less touristy and consequently quieter. Research also indicated that the beaches of Koh Rong Sanloem would be superior, with crystal-clear waters and stunning white sand. The island offers a more authentic and relaxing environment, ideal for those seeking peace and a connection with nature.

Where to Stay in Koh Rong Sanloem: The Best Areas and Hotels

Choosing where to stay in Koh Rong Sanloem depends on the type of experience you are looking for. The island has three main accommodation zones: Saracen Bay, the most developed area; M’Pay Bay, an authentic and budget-friendly village; and Lazy Beach, a remote and peaceful beach.

1. Where to Stay in Saracen Bay

Saracen Bay is the most popular area of Koh Rong Sanloem, known for its white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. This is where we chose to stay during our time on the island.

• Budget: The Big Easy Koh Rong Samloem – A laid-back and lively accommodation, ideal for travelers looking for a social environment on the island.
• Mid-range: Sol Beach Resort – Spacious Khmer-style villas, some beachfront and others set a little back. It has a convenient restaurant, and this is where we stayed during our visit.
• Luxury: Eden Beach Resort By EHM – A 4-star resort with an outdoor pool, restaurant, and bar. Rooms are spacious with air conditioning and LCD TVs, ideal for those looking for more comfort.

2. Where to Stay in M’Pay Bay (or M’Pai Bay)

If you are looking for a more authentic and budget-friendly experience, M’Pay Bay is a fishing village in the north of the island, known for its laid-back vibe and welcoming local community.

• Budget: Bong’s Guesthouse – A small guesthouse in the heart of the village, offering double rooms and a bar/restaurant with sea views.
• Mid-range: Sam’s Guesthouse M’Pai Bay – Just a 2-minute walk from M’Pai Bay Beach, this guesthouse offers comfortable rooms with private bathrooms and terraces. The hostess is known for her hospitality and helpful tips about the area.  
• Luxury: ThmorDa Resort – A stylish beachfront retreat offering comfort, privacy, and stunning views of the island.

3. Where to Stay in Lazy Beach

If you prefer isolation and contact with nature, Lazy Beach is the perfect choice. This beach, on the western side of the island, is a peaceful haven, ideal for disconnecting from the world.

• Budget: Lazy Beach Bungalows – The only hotel on this beach, with rustic wooden bungalows and a prime location by the sea.
• Mid-range: Robinson Bungalows – An isolated option in the middle of the jungle, with ventilated bungalows and glamping tents, ideal for nature lovers.

Each area has its own charm: Saracen Bay is perfect for those who want more amenities, M’Pay Bay offers a more authentic and budget-friendly environment, while Lazy Beach is ideal for those looking for total tranquility.

How many days to stay in Koh Rong Sanloem

The main activity on the island is enjoying the beach, so the number of days depends on how long you want to relax. You can also explore other areas of the island, but that wasn’t our plan, so we stayed in a beachfront villa for 3 days.

What to Do in Koh Rong Sanloem

Koh Rong Sanloem is much more than just paradise beaches. If you’re looking for adventure or just something different beyond lounging on the white sand, there are various activities to make your visit memorable.

Water Adventures

• Stand-Up Paddle (SUP): Explore the coastline in a relaxing way – some resorts offer free boards.
• Snorkeling & Diving: Discover the island’s vibrant marine life on guided tours.
• Jet Ski: For adrenaline fans, jet skis are available for hourly rental.

Tours and Excursions

• Private Boat Tour: Customize your adventure – snorkeling, fishing, sunset or bioluminescent plankton.
• Shared Boat Tour: Includes several activities in one experience.
• Quad or Tractor Tour: Alternative ways to explore the island, with or without hiking.

Hiking Trails

• Lazy Beach & Sunset Beach: Short walks to secluded beaches.
• Lighthouse: A longer route with incredible views.
• Stone Sculptures: A small detour to see local rock art.

Unique Experiences

• Bioluminescent Plankton: A nighttime tour to see the sea glow in the dark.
• Traditional Fishing: Learn local techniques with the fishermen.
• Visit to M’Pai Bay: Discover the authentic life of a fishing village.

Whether you’re relaxing or exploring, Koh Rong Sanloem has something for everyone. Plan your stay and make the most of this Cambodian paradise!

What to Eat in Koh Rong Sanloem

Koh Rong Sanloem offers a unique culinary experience, blending local and international flavors. Among the typical dishes, amok stands out, a fish cooked in coconut milk and seasoned with traditional Cambodian spices. Fresh seafood, such as shrimp and crabs, are abundant on the island and a true delight. If you prefer international cuisine, you’ll also find options like artisanal pizzas and Mediterranean dishes, reflecting the diversity brought by visitors and expats.

The restaurants in Saracen Bay are the most popular. The Sara Resort Restaurant is known for its fresh seafood and cozy atmosphere. Mr. Nice Restaurant Bar stands out for its grilled dishes. For a more relaxed experience, The Big Easy Koh Rong Sanloem offers a variety of dishes in a lively setting. Be sure to also explore Paradise Restaurant, where you’ll find Asian recipes with a Western twist.

Tips for traveling in Koh Rong Sanloem

• Bring enough money: There are no ATMs on the island, and not all places accept cards. However, Bakong Tourist, a digital payment system available in Cambodia, can be a useful alternative.
• Travel insurance: Make sure you’re covered – we recommend Heymondo.
• Mobile data: An eSIM from Holafly could be a good option to stay connected.
• Essentials: Bring insect repellent and sunscreen, essential for the tropical climate.
• Supermarkets and shops: Although limited, there are some stores, especially in Saracen Bay. If you have specific needs, bring the essentials with you.
• Explore the island: You can rent a scooter to explore the corners and other beaches of the island.
• Private Boat Tour: Customize your adventure – snorkeling, fishing, sunset, or bioluminescent plankton.
• Shared Boat Tour: Includes several activities in one experience.
• Quad or Tractor Tour: Alternative ways to explore the island with or without hiking.